Capiz in History: A Thomasite Teacher's First Impression of Capiz in 1903

Mary Helen Fee, was a dedicated American woman who was assigned as a teacher in Capiz between 1903 to 1911.  She came in the ship named the Thomas . . . the following are excerpts of her first impressions upon arriving in Capiz from Manila on a ferry, named Blanco.  These ferries were then called Lorchas during those times.   Here is her first impression upon arriving in Capiz, back in the days when the ferries were allowed to sail in from the sea and into the river, all the way to the riverbank just in front of the Plaza (Main Square) and the Church.

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We skirted the horn of a crescent-shaped bay, found a river's mouth, and entered. Here at least 

was the tropical scene of my imagination--a tide-swollen current, its marshy banks covered 

with strange foliage, and innumerable water lanes leading out of it into palmy depths. Down 

these lanes came bancas, sometimes with a single occupant paddling at the stern, sometimes 

with a whole family sitting motionless on their heels. Once we passed the ruins of what had 

been a sugar mill or a bino factory--probably the latter. Then the Blanco, puffing ahead, 

whistled twice, we rounded a curve and came full upon the town. 

Though subsequent familiarity has brought to my notice many details that I then overlooked, 

that first impression was the one of greatest charm, and the one I love best to remember. There 

were the great, square, white-painted, red-tiled houses lining both banks of the river; the 

picturesque groups beating their clothes on the flat steps which led down to the water; and the 

sprawling wooden bridge in the distance where the stream made an abrupt sweep to the right. 

On the left of the bridge was a grassy plaza shaded with almond trees, a stately church, several 

squat stone buildings which I knew for jail and municipal quarters, and a flag staff with the 

Stars and Stripes whipping the breeze from its top. Over all hung a sky dazzlingly blue and an 

atmosphere crystal clear. Back of the town a low unforested mountain heaved a grassy 

shoulder above the palms, and far off there was a violet tracery of more mountains. 

I knew that I should like Capiz. 

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